Please excuse the subpar photo, it’s a fairly old one and I never retained the original.
Back when I had KS Skincare up and running, I made a men’s line which included this Australian inspired cream cleanser. Though it was intended for men, it became a hit with everyone. Great for both dry and oily skin (but especially dry), cream cleansers include an emulsifier so that they can pull oil and dirt on your face into the body of the cleanser, and allow it to rinse clean. In short, they are a lotion repackaged. They vary from lotions in a couple of small ways: they often include additional emsulifiers to improve their cleansing properties, they don’t include the more expensive ingredients as they are going to be washed down the drain, they are formulated to be lighter than some face creams.
This would be a great beginners project if you delving into the world of emulsification, while also being a good choice for any skin type.
Bush Honey Cream Cleanser
- Distilled Water (48.2%)
- Chamomile Water (9%)
- Witch Hazel (9%)
- Honey (3%)*
- 1% Glycerine
- Sucrose Cocoate (2%)
- Polysorbate 80 (2%)
- Burdock Root Powdered Extract (.3%) – increase or decrease based on the strength of your extract
- Allantoin (0.5%)
- 5% Olive Oil
- 5% Jojoba Oil
- 4% Fractionated Coconut Oil
- 1% Olive Squalene
- E Wax (6%)
- Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol (2%)
Cool Down Phase:
- Optiphen Plus (1%)
- 1% Fragrance (I used Brambleberry’s Rustic Woods and Rum, available from AussieSoapSupplies if Australian).
For an easy 100g, just read the % symbols as grams and make away! If you would like to create a larger or smaller batch, or convert it into a different measurement, use this batch calculator.
*Honey can always pose preservation problems and is not essential to this recipe. You can easily remove it and replace it with equal parts water, or glycerine if you would like to maintain the humectant portion.
- Prepare and sanitize your area.
- Measure the oil and water phase into separate pyrex dishes (or similarly heat proof bowls). Add an additional 10% to the water phase (10g if you are making a 100g batch) to account for evaporation. Weigh the water phase and bowl and minus the 10% water addition. This number is the optimum number you want your water phase to be at when it is removed from the heat.
- Creating a water bath, melt both phases. Cover the water phase to minimize evaporation. To ensure sterilization, you can heat up to 75 degrees celsius and hold for two minutes.
- Once the heated phases are fully melted and combined, remove from the heat. Weigh the water phase again, and add any additional water if required.
- Using a stick blender, gently pour your water phase into the oil phase, blending on a medium to high setting to emulsify. Once you have a consistently white liquid, continue blending intermittently every few minutes or so till cool. Alternatively, continue blending on a low setting till cool.
- To finish, add the cool down ingredients once the temperature reaches 50 degrees Celsius or under, blending them in with the stick blender to combine.
- Funnel or spoon into the container of your choice.
As a gentle cleanser, this can be used every day morning and night. I stored it in the shower, but if you choose to do so please ensure it is in a plastic pump container which is water proof. No dipping your wet fingers in!