Light Hair Conditioning Serum

My hair can be a true terror sometimes. My roots will get oily, my ends will get dry.. in short, my hair is not easy to please. Dry shampoo and a leave in conditioner are therefore my best friends, as they allow me to find a happy medium. If you are in the same boat, or are on the hunt for a light leave in conditioner, I’ve got you covered. This light hair conditioning serum provides an instant punch of moisture to parched ends, while ensuring your roots don’t get oily. With jojoba oil, orange blossom hydrosol and horsetail extract, it is loaded with hair loving ingredients.

 

Light Hair Conditioning Serum

Heated Phase:

  • Distilled Water (58%)
  • Incroquat BTMS 50 (2%)
  • Glycerin (2%)
  • Oliv-Esters/Olivemulse 300 (2%)
  • Chamomile Hydrosol (13%)
  • Orange Blossom Hydrosol (10%)
  • Hydrolysed Oat Protein (2)

Cool Down Phase:

  • Polyquat 7 (2%)
  • Panthenol (3%)
  • Oliv-Silicone (3%)
  • Jojoba Oil (1%)
  • 0.5% Horsetail Extract (Powdered, adjust accordingly based on your extract strength).
  • Fragrance (1%)
  • Liquid Germall Plus (0.5%)

For an easy 100g or so of product, just read the % symbols as grams and make away! If you would like to create a larger or smaller batch, or convert it into a different measurement, use this batch calculator

 

Lets break down the role these ingredients play. In the heated phase, we are using a fairly large % of water. This hydrates the hair, as well as keeping the product light and fast absorbing. As our emulsifier we are using BTMS 50 for it’s cationic properties – this means it is positively charged so it will adhere to your hair better. We’ve used two hydrosols here, chamomile for it’s soothing capacity and orange blossom to reduce sebum build up. Oliv-esters and oat proteins act as light film formers, hydrating and softening the hair.

For the cool down phase we are adding polyquat 7. This is also a cationic ingredient, contributing to the conditioning properties of the final product. We have a small amount of jojoba oil and oliv-silicone as hydrating additions; and lastly, some horsetail extract to prevent split ends.

To fragrance, I used Brambleberry’s Moonlight Pomegranate which brings to mind a decadent, feminine, hair product line.

 

 Directions:

  1. Prepare and sanitize your area.
  2. Measure your heated phase into a pyrex dish (or a similarl heat proof bowl). Add an additional 10% to the water phase (10g if you are making a 100g batch) to account for evaporation. Weigh the water phase and bowl and minus the 10% water addition. This number is the optimum number you want your water phase to be at when it is removed from the heat.
  3. Creating a water bath, melt your heated phase. Cover the water phase to minimize evaporation. To ensure sterilization, you can heat up to 75 degrees celsius and hold for two minutes.
  4. Once the heated phase is fully melted and combined, remove from the heat. Weigh the heated phase again, and add any additional water if required.
  5. Use a stick blender (or a hand whisk if you are careful) to ensure the heated phase is fully cominbed.
  6. To finish, add the cool down ingredients once the temperature reaches 50 degrees Celsius or under, blending them in with the stick blender to combine.
  7. Funnel or spoon into the container of your choice.

 

At first I thought this was a touch too runny, but with use I’ve discovered it is the perfect consistency to spread through hair. The thin texture allows for even coverage without one section of your hair becoming over saturated. It sinks in fairly quickly and leaves the hair soft and easily brushable. If your hair can be prone to oiliness, I’d recommend concentrating on the ends of your hair.

A quick note on substitutions:

BTMS 50 is essential to this formula and has no direct substitution. The remaining ingredients can be alternated similar products. When substituting, keep in mind the properties that ingredient brings to the final product. If you were substituting the jojoba oil, you would want a similarly light oil which is evidenced to benefit hair. This might include coconut oil, camellia oil, broccoli seed oil, and so forth.

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